ken_cinder

I'm locking this thread. I directed you to the sticky in your previous thread, and this one isn't far from your original one. Asking WHEN the emulator will play commercial games is no better. This thread wasn't needed and is just a waste of space.

As long as the table size doesn't increase, I think it's a good idea. If it makes that table larger though, no way. The page is long enough as it is. Looks like 10 should fit just fine though.

Given that this is a post in the Dualis forum, I'm pretty sure he means DS emulators. As for why they aren't collaborating, there could be many reasons. #1: Programming languages #2: Programming style #3: Doing this is a personal goal, want to work alone #4: Haven't considered the idea of collaborating #5: Liscencing issues (One emulator may use a liscence that isn't compatible with another, and may incorporate code from something else making it impossible to change the liscening agreement) Only the authors know, hopefully they may answer your question themselves.

I'm still loving this.......those features are present in the Gamecube version as well, they just require you to unlock them. The only thing the PS2 got was Ada's "Seperate Ways" missions, so "Beats it by far" is one hell of a stretch. Hardly worth paying the money for if you've played the Cube version, seeing as it's superior in every other aspect. If you don't own a Cube though, or haven't played the Cube version......go for it. I however wouldn't even waste a disc on a pirated copy of this when I have the Gamecube version.

It absolutely does, otherwise there would be no purpose in tolerance levels. When you're working with a video signal that can, and does fluctuate within those levels.......restricting the signal too much can cause a loss if it fluctuates outside the tolerance range. Lowering the tolerance in a guitar amp by using a 5% instead of a 10% is a whole different story, it is more accurate and you're keeping the sound reproduction closer to what it should be.

Sure, if your goal is to constrict a signal that much. But when you require that a signal that can vary as much as 10% either way (Over or under) it's not exactly a good idea.

Nice Thraxen, I'm going to bookmark that for future use. Unfortunately they don't carry any with a 10% tolerance, only 5%.

Need a 333Gohm resistor to finish that project. This is just to fix one of my TVs.

I've never seen a Carbon Composition resistor over 1Mohm in any regular electronics store here, I could probably find it in a specialty shop that caters only to the needs of those seeking parts as such. We don't have one in the town I live in though. Oh and you could probably walk from one end of Australia to the other, faster than I could walk across the single province I live in here. It's a little different here, where the larger stores are huge retail chains that cater to the braindead masses with prefab crap. It ain't easy for a hobbyist to find anything they need without going to a specialty store.

They don't carry 3.3s of any type, thanks though. I think I may have found an Ebayer who will sell me one, along with a 44 piece package (Can't hurt to have a stockpile of other resistors). It's probably better I buy from him anyway, cost me $10 for what would cost me $50 in a store like Radio Shack.

I can't find this kind of resistor in any average store. I need a 3.3Mohm resistor with a 10% tolerance, and no.....Radio Shack doesn't sell em. Ebay comes up with nothing either. Anyone know of an electronics store online that would carry these? A store that will ship to Canada, and accepts either Paypal or a Money Order/Cheque. I know of an electronics liquidation place that sells them, but they #1 Don't ship to Canada #2 Only accept purchases directly through credit card processing (And I'm not giving my credit card number to some webshop, period) And no, this doesn't belong in PC Technical Support forum.

Willing to part it out? I WAS interested until I took a closer look at the specs on the motherboard.......anything integrated is ewww, especially graphics. (Yeah I know you can usually disable it, but I still despise onboard audio/video) I'm interested in the CPU/Tt Cooler and possibly the hard drive.

Have a look at the topic pinned right at the top of this forum. That ought to tell you everything you need to know. Or I could just tell you, that DSEmu does NOT play commerical games. No DS emulator does currently. The only emulator to even show anything from a commercial game is iDeaS, which shows the intro for Metroid Prime: Hunters. I'm locking this thread because it requires no further explanation, or questions for that matter.

An Xbox360 DVD is no different than an Xbox DVD, existing Xbox ISO tools can read images. The filetypes have changed though, the executables are different (Architecture being different is THE most obvious reason there). As of this moment, there is no way to patch Xbox games to simply run from a backup on a virgin console by altering the media_id, theres more to it than that.......and theres def even more to the 360 than that. Pipe dreams, wait on some real progress.

Yeah, you're over-reacting. The disc provides no help in hacking the 360 whatsoever, or booting other backups. The unsigned parts of the disc are just the media files, the XEX files ARE signed......the ONLY reason this disc boots from a backup is because Microsoft set the media_id flag to allow for it to do so. Nothing to see here folks, move along.

Seconded.......as waste of valuable database space. I hereby nuke this thread!

The E drive is NOT used for caching game data. If you have a modded Xbox, run a game and then have a look through the X, Y and Z drives.........those are where cached data is stored. Looking through my brothers right now, he just played LA Rush and in the X drive there is stored all the relevant cars, AI, Land and Resource data. The Y drive is empty and the Z drive contains Xbox specific cache data for the game such as fonts, GUI data etc. I've never seen more than a few MB of data in the E drive cache, I'm not sure what exactly it's use is........but I assure you it's not for actual game data like levels, vehicles etc. It's probably more likely that it's temporary USER data. Upon further checking though, 16kb IS 1 block........on the hard drive. On Memory Cards, 64kb is 1 block (according to one memory card mfg at least) this I find odd.....some sort of overhead in flash memory types? Why would Microsoft put such a low numerical value, when theres so much more space than 50000 blocks?

Even by your calculations that it's 16kb (Trust me, it's 64.....google it) you'd still not be seeing 50000+ blocks available. Theres only around 4GB of user space. With what you said, you'd still be using like 3 of 4 GB..........def wouldn't be showing 50000+ blocks available.

Or download a copy for your Xbox

It was also in Canadian dollars......brainfart?

Yeah, you can only introduce the virus via a USB device like any other virus though. The only "special" thing being that it's easier to introduce a virus that attacks MBRs etc via a USB device that is bootable. Thats why I don't allow anything to boot from USB.

A "Spillproof" keyboard doesn't mean you can submerse it in water, there are still openings to the innards through the slots the keys sit in. I have a "Spillproof" keyboard, and sure it's great for spilling stuff on and not having it cause some issues, but stuff still gets inside on the circuitboard. Just not as easily, or as much as a non-spillproof. Keep submersing your keyboard in water and see what happens to the edge connector on the circuitboard.

No it's not, I take mine completely apart to clean it. I remove the circuitboard and wipe it down with a cloth (Not the breadboard with the LEDs on it!) they're completely plastic coated, the rest goes in the sink and gets washed like you'd wash dishes. Keyboards are such simple pieces of equipment, it's nearly impossible to do any real damage to them unless you're careless. As for this statement: Don't be telling people this. The circuitboard for the keys may be plastic coated, but the other one for the LEDs and the wiring harness is NOT. Water won't hurt the connectors either, if you dry them off right away......but leaving them air dry will cause them to rust or corrode over time. The wiring inside is also not always very well insulated either, water gets inside the harness and you could wind up frying the PS/2 port on your motherboard with a short circuit backtracing through the keyboard into your computer.........if your keyboard is USB, you could lose a port, or worse an entire USB Root Hub.

I'm only 24, speak for yourself

A 251 mem card for my Gamecube, a hat, $50 cash, $50 in Walmart gift cards and some Cashews. I have an 8 month old daughter, Christmas presents for me aren't important anymore. She got too much to list though.