ken_cinder

I already own Q3A and TA and have played the hell out of them on and offline, but what the hell this looks like somewhat of a new twist on an old experience. Where do I put my Virtual John Hancock?

They weren't until he got to them. I can't stand the stuff they did with him, or anything since. Saw them live in concert with Metallica, Limp Bizkit, Mudvayne and The Deftones and they put on the best show.

I'd find it hard to believe it could be good. His music sucks bad enough on it's own, and he absolutely ruined Linkin Park.

I don't even have Atomic Bomb, you guys suck.

Theres no way to do it, and no other emulator will run as well. The best thing you can do, is lower your desktop resolution while playing. And there are tools you can use that will do this for you every time you load no$gba so you don't have to manually change it every time.

Why the hell does anyone insist on overclocking? If you need to overclock, buy better components instead. Overclocking kills hardware, period. The ONLY reason to overclock, is to squeeze what little you can out of it at the end of it's life cycle. Overclocking for the sake of saying you did so is just plain stupid.

Since you do alot of video encoding, and I would imagine given where you are posting this you enjoy emulators like the rest of us and MAME would be one of those...... 2GB of 1066mhz RAM will be a better choice than 4GB of 800. For the most part, no emulator will touch more than 2GB of RAM (In certain cases yes) and the faster that RAM is the better. Nothing wrong with picking up a quad core if the price is right. Future proofing FTW If you aren't big on PC gaming, just get a video card that will do what you need. Only HLE emulators like N64/Gamecube etc will need a powerful video card, stuff that's older and LLE like MAME aren't going to make use of an insanely powerful video card.

I have mine pre-ordered from a random torrent site.

Yeah, you're not even going to find an HTPC case for $150, they're expensive. Find a micro ATX case, and build from there. Even doing that, you're not going to build for $150 unless you use old as hell parts.

Max Payne, and whoever wrote the script for the movie needs to be shot and pissed on. For the 1st half hour I was confused as all hell, then not..... thinking they were fleshing out the story, then confused again and finally realizing they've completely screwed the stroyline and 75% of it is missing entirely! Fans will be confused for the first half hour, and pissed off for the next half hour, only to be seriously disappointed after the final 45 minutes. If you know nothing about Max Payne, it could be a half decent movie. But I'll say it again, whoever put the script together for the movie, needs to be shot and pissed on.

I have a Versus City arcade cabinet, with Ultimarc Ultrastik 360s in it. I also have some X-Arcade 8-way sticks, a few Sanwa/Siemitsu sticks but after buying the 360s, they all suck! At $60 a stick though, it's not necessarily the greatest choice for everyone. For anyone with MAME in mind though, I recommend it highly as it can act as a 2-way stick all the way to a full 360 degree range of motion flight stick. http://www.ultimarc.com/ultrastik_info.html There's nothing in it for me to point you in their direction, I just absolutely LOVE them.

That's the best way, hack off the controller port end of the cable and wire it to the parallel port, then you just plug your SNES pad in like you would a real SNES.

I've run a 64bit OS, with 64bit executables that also have 32bit executables by default or available. Given the hassle for drivers, and the fact that 16bit apps will not under ANY circumstances run, it's not worth it. Very few things actually take advantage of the 64bit architecture, there are problems with numerous 32bit apps and like I stated ANYTHING 16bit simply doesn't work. Why does 16bit stuff matter? Because even up until a couple years ago, plenty of installers for apps/games were 16bit. That means your older software that you still enjoy now on a 32bit OS, if it uses a 16bit installer or main executable.........or even 16bit libraries will not run AT ALL. Unless your goal is running a server, my suggestion is to stay away from 64bit OS' right now. The cons outweigh the pros, and added performance is not one of the pros. Vista is a resource hogging POS regardless of architecture, stick to XP.

They have, you just don't own the solution. They can't permanently fix bad design on existing hardware.

I still run MAME32 0.87 in my cab, anything newer is too much of a resource hog, as the MAME core was bitchslapped into dragging it's feet after that.

There's no guarantee even with a CRT it will work. It fully depends on the circuitry involved. If the lightgun does all the calculation itself and sends the data to the system for targeting based on existing control inputs, it will work. If the lightgun expects a CPU and or DSP in the original system to do the calculations, you're SOL.

That doesn't matter. That's like saying "I'm a millionaire, so I don't care that gas costs $5 a gallon/$2 a litre". Attached a screenshot as proof in previous post.

1.2GB of memory? That's disgusting, XP Pro with all the bells and whistles and my filemanager running with firefox open and antivirus etc etc, is using 590MB of RAM here. Hell my PEAK usage was under 800MB, and that was after running MAME! uTorrent running also.

Looks like they've actually somewhat listened to their fans, and moved away from the candy-ass WoW coloring a bit.

I don't believe the question was "What do you use to play with yourself".

System level DRM? Not want. Sandboxing of said DRM? Not want DirectX 11 on this ONLY? Not want I've had it with Microsoft, I'm sticking with XP until it's no longer viable, then it's 100% Linux for me. A big "F**K YOU!" Microsoft, and I'm never looking back. Vista was the biggest joke in the history of operating systems, why would I want to get within 10 yards of this garbage?

Just get a chip, all the latest ones prevent this sort of thing themselves from what I've read.

For PC games that require a gamepad I use this cheap Sector 7 Gamepad from Extreme Gaming. Surprisingly, I thought it would be a half-assed POS when I bought it, but it's actually one of the best pads I've used. The entire top half of the controller shell is soft rubber, the sticks and buttons are very responsive and it supports force feedback. All for $15. For emulators - I have a dual monitor head to head arcade cabinet. 2 Ultimarc Ultra-Stik 360s and standard pushbutttons. The Ultra-stiks are something I'd recommend to ANYONE looking for a good arcade stick, as they use highly sensitive hall effect sensors providing full analog, or settings down to acting like a 4-way stick. http://www.ultimarc.com/ultrastik_info.html I also have a couple homemade adapters for SNES pads etc, and they get used on the PC powering that cabinet for SNES games etc.

Must be a CRT, with a refresh rate of 60hz or higher (Maybe fixed at 60hz, depending on how the circuitry is designed). LCD/Plasma won't work.

Uh yeah, that was not only uncalled for but an uninformed and non insightful post. Please, have a little class and keep (I can't come up with a better word) STUPID posts like this to yourself.