ken_cinder

I have a switch mod installed. It consists of a 3 way center off toggle switch I got at radio shack, and wired up to the logic board of my PS2s DVD drive. I have an old fat PS2. I use it together with the Independence Exploit. Pop one of my PS1 games in, exploit loads. From there either load Cogswap or Swap Magic ELF (Have a couple problematic games using Cogswap, but it loads more games than Swap Magic does) and do my swap using the switch instead of one of those stupid cog tools.

I'm sorry, but everyone I know that would stoop to something this stupid, are the kind of people who will waste HOURS per day playing WoW side by side on 2 computers (I know people like this, LITERALLY), text message eachother when they're in the same room etc etc and be the kind of parents you read about in headlines, that leave their children starving to death while they play MMOs all day instead of going to work. This people, is a BAD thing.

I know I'm never buying a JEEP now. How the hell did that come THROUGH the floorboards, it's SUPPOSED to be an off-road vehicle. Are the floorboards made of paper?

I don't do emo, thus I won't say I missed you.

By the looks of it, the bat hit him in the chest below his shoulder, and came up from there hitting him in the face. Looking at it, he took the very end of the bat in the upper torso which would have broke a rib. Not a nice place to break a rib if thats the case, you move your arm and it's serious pain (I know, I broke 3 in that area).

I'd REALLY love to know where the love for Saturn pads is coming from. I have Japanese V2 pads, the BEST standard Saturn pads in existence and they aren't all that great. The Saturn pads buttons are too stiff feeling (No matter the pad) without enough of a concave OR convex shape, the D-Pad on Sega's pads are **** no matter the system and ALL Saturn pads are WAY too lightweight. Don't get me wrong, theres essentially "nothing wrong with them" from a use standpoint, they get the job done........but theres more than enough to pick apart when the subject at hand is the topic of this thread, that ANY Sega controller belongs at the bottom of any list (Dreamcast controller sucks ass, period BTW. The system is a different story though, I love the system and hate the controller more than any other)

Tibet declared it's independence in 1911 after the fall of the Qing dynasty, it's time for China to let go. Imperial rule ended on this same basis, and a republic was formed. The current government has absolutely NO claim to Tibet based on this reason alone, and such shameful acts that have gone on for decades should mean China should NEVER get the Olympics until they GTFO out Tibet once and for all. The Olympics are about peace and friendly competition, boycotting China because of Tibet is ENTIRELY relevant here.

Gamecube it's the most ergonomic controller that ever existed and the shoulder buttons are second to none, Playstation controllers are k......but analog sticks are useless where they are positioned (Too close together on inside, like twiddling your thumbs together), and have absolutely ZERO resistance to them (An analog stick NEEDS resistance). They're just a thicker SNES pad otherwise.......and we all know the SNES pad was the $hit.

I still have this if anyone is interested.

I own real hardware btw, and slowdown is an issue present on the real hardware with more than 2 enemies onscreen at a time. It's quite noticeable. Slowdown otherwise isn't however, and in MAME is a core issue beyond 0.87. Use an emulator that utilizes any core as old/older than that and you should be fine.

Go into that same Folder Options and click on the view tab and click on Reset All Folders, then try to get it to save that view. If "Apply to All Folders" has ever been checked, the view that was saved will ALWAYS revert.

I've traversed far more dangerous paths than that before. At least you have a wall to fall against where those sections are missing, try that sort of thing with nothing on either side. Looks more dangerous than it really is......unless you're drunk.

1GB of PC5300 for $100? Eww, I paid that for 2x1GB of PC6400 AData (Lifetime warranty and good performing RAM). That's 'spensive. As for motherboards, if you're a gamer, you shouldn't EVER buy a board with onboard video. The added cost alone is such a waste from the start. Onboard audio used to be a no-no, but within the last couple years, the hardware has become decent enough that you can do without something like an expensive card like an X-Fi. My 7.1 SoundMax onboard does a super job, and is EAX compliant......I need nothing else. And Antec cases are CRAP, period. They don't even look good anymore. They're overpriced for no apparant reason. You needn't buy any "branded" overpriced case, it's just a case and no case is going to do anything special for you that paying over $100 for is going to be worth. The bulk of your money should be spent on core components, in the following order of importance for performance and stability. 1: Power Supply - DO NOT CHEAP HERE. Theres also no reason to spend $300 on a PSU, just don't buy a $30 one either. You get what you pay for here, really. Cheap PSU that can't supply stable voltage and enough amperage for your components to digest, WILL kill your hardware. 2: Motherboard - Don't buy some bargain bin special. Like a PSU, this can be detrimental to performance and kill components. Cheap boards, have cheap components. 3: RAM - Doesn't do your system any good to have a key component in it like RAM, slowing it down or dying out of nowhere. RAM is plenty cheaper than it used to be. I remember paying over $200 for a 128MB stick of PC133 SDRAM at one point. But like with cases, all of these "specialty" RAM modules, generally use the same chips as lesser brands and you're just getting ripped off. Heat spreaders hide the chips, so the average joe that might even look, won't notice. Find RAM with a lifetime warranty, and you're pretty much set. Stay away from "Timing comparisons" as a difference in timings by 1 or 2, is negligible. Everything else, go with what fits your needs. Just make sure the 3 core components can deliver what is needed for the rest. Don't buy a 300w PSU that only has 15amps on it's 12v rail, and expect to run an SLI/Crossfire setup with higher end cards..........you're just asking for trouble here.

I vote Darrell Sweet of Nazareth or John Bonham of Led Zeppelin.

Uh same here, HUGE list. Forget about it. And I've beaten Zelda PH twice now. You who can count games beaten in lifetime on fingers? For shame........

Is there a chance to convert your believes to MegaMan series ? No, because they haven't shat all over the Metroid storyline, changed the character to a long haired freak with a sword and bastardized it all over the place.

I'm attaching a TXT file with my response, as it appears the server doesn't like the content found within. I don't see why, theres nothing wrong with the text whatsoever. lcdres.txt

Yes, I second that. Never thought I'd see OratPart again. Where the hell are the others I miss from A@H and other know realms. Like Baseley, where'd that crazy ass brit disappear to?

http://developers.sun.com/mobility/midp/articles/palm/ You'll need the tool thats in the devkit referenced there, find "Convert a MIDlet into a PRC file" on that page, and you'll see.

Samus Aran - Metroid Series How do you get any more badass than this? If it wasn't otherwise known, you'd assume she, was a he. Doesn't hurt that it's my favorite game series ever.

If you read what you are referencing, you'll take note of the fact that the "Gay" enemies, are in the Japanese version only. Thus, you'll need the Japanese rom.

Protective issue. Obviously the mother could not adequately protect her child. If she has a history of drug abuse, crime etc.......this makes it lights out, she ain't getting that kid back. US or here in Canada.

Only been with a different company for 4 months now, was using Sympatico. They weren't throttling me. I'd bet it was in major urban centers, such as Toronto, where it's overcrowded to a disgusting degree to start with. Or if they were, it's just cause I'm smarter than the average bear to begin with.....

Robert, these so called hundreds of watts speakers are listed at their PEAK output. At any given milisecond the speaker can output say 300w. Continuous however (RMS, though an incorrect term, but the consumer misnomer) being easily below 50w. I refuse to buy any speaker with a peak value only listed. I'd prefer to know average sine wave, but that's not something you'll be able to dig up on the average consumer piece. You'd need REALLY expensive kit, and I cannot afford this, so the "RMS" value is ones safe bet.

I hid easter stuff for my daughter last night, while partaking in watching a movie and drinking an entire magnum (1.5L) of wine. I had fun! Happy Beaster!