Xbox Legacy fat pad Hack

[Garcimak]

All wires on the pic are recycled IDE ribbon.

 

Hacking the duke

FULL SIZE PICTURE

 

Edit : Resistor fix also for S-Pad

 

 

when taking signal from pointed area,

use 6x 4.7K resistor for A - B - X - Y - WHITE - BLACK

and 4x 33 Ohm for U - D - L - R direction button,

Leaving BACK and START as it is (direct GND contact)

 

I glued those resistor within the DB-15/25 socket.

Edited March 5, 2012 by Garcimak

[sbpaabck]

I may be able to palm a bowling ball, but even I couldn't comfortably or effectively wrap my mitts around Microsoft's original monstruosity. This gargantuan thing just made his way to my cab, here is my dirty hack.

 

FULL SIZE PICTURE

 

Interesting, are the triggers producing analogue signals/outputs when connected like that?

 

Which components did you use for buttons arcade sticks etc, where did you get them?

 

Hope you don;t mind me asking, I might build a cab one day when I am more bold

[Garcimak]

Interesting, are the triggers producing analogue signals/outputs when connected like that?

 

Which components did you use for buttons arcade sticks etc, where did you get them?

 

Hope you don;t mind me asking, I might build a cab one day when I am more bold

 

 

I've left the triggers disconnected for the moment (my cab is not analog) maybe we can use them with a sliders/pot but i have no idea. Anyone ?

 

For the components, i've found Jammaboard.com (was expecting more expensive prices, but it's really accessible to "everyone" )

Edited December 12, 2009 by Garcimak

[sbpaabck]

Interesting, are the triggers producing analogue signals/outputs when connected like that?

 

Which components did you use for buttons arcade sticks etc, where did you get them?

 

Hope you don;t mind me asking, I might build a cab one day when I am more bold

 

 

I've left the triggers disconnected for the moment (my cab is not analog) maybe we can use them with a sliders/pot but i have no idea. Anyone ?

 

For the components, i've found Jammaboard.com (was expecting more expensive prices, but it's really accessible to "everyone" )

 

thanks for the info, I have heard mention of Jamma Board before. Must admit I never thought of soldering direct to the controllers, that would be a straightfoward connection solution...

 

what kind of cab have you got? did you buy it or make it?

 

edit:- man that cab in the pic you pm'd me looks like it could use some tlc. Im sure it will look great when you are finished with it. I think when I finally get round to it im gonna build my own. Saw a tutorial on it, made it look easy! I need lots of tools before I ever attempt anything like that tho.

 

Good luck with the project and thanks for the info

Edited December 12, 2009 by sbpaabck

[sharpfork]

Brining this thread back from the dead as I am searching for info on the easiest pad hacks for xbox1.

 

I can see from the pic that you scrapped off the dpad area on the PCB. I've seen after pics of people soldering right to that area but never a decent tutorial on how to do it. You seem like you were going to try it but ended up soldering to the bottom of the PCB instead- Why?

 

Does anyone have a decent tutorial for doing the scape/sand + solder instead of hitting the little pins on the underside?

 

I may be able to palm a bowling ball, but even I couldn't comfortably or effectively wrap my mitts around Microsoft's original monstruosity. This gargantuan thing was designated to make his way to some cab, here is my dirty hack.

 

 

FULL SIZE PICTURE

[Garcimak]

Brining this thread back from the dead as I am searching for info on the easiest pad hacks for xbox1.

 

I can see from the pic that you scrapped off the dpad area on the PCB. I've seen after pics of people soldering right to that area but never a decent tutorial on how to do it. You seem like you were going to try it but ended up soldering to the bottom of the PCB instead- Why?

Hi sharpfork,

 

so i tried to scratch the surface to find the copper, but I preferred to follow a better method

following the tracks to spot points tinned for better soldering, you can keep a functional gamepad

(mine was guinea pig) and dispose a DB-15 socket or whatever outgoing the memory slot like this

 

http://www.xerxes3rd.net/staticpages/index...ontrollerOnXbox

 

Here is another scheme for s-Pad (by spinal) i used to adjust value between button and ground, if you do this way

you can avoid some burned controller due to previous test without those resistor (or messy ground feedback in a cab)

 

there are two versions of the PCB S-pad, they are well differentiated in the tutorial but the pattern remains the same.

 

 

In the diagram of the pad of the Xbox there are these resistors. So if you want the current drawn by the pad are exactly the same as your original controller, it must be put.

 

One last thing: Do not forget if your controller is wired to common ground (like my cab) to reverse resistor and switch, in the scheme, move all resistor before the switches

 

Good luck with the project and thanks for the info

Thanks man, sorry I missed this one, took me years

Edited September 25, 2011 by Garcimak

[sharpfork]

you can avoid some burned controller due to previous test without those resistor (or messy ground feedback in a cab)

I'm not sure what this means. I also have the old fat "Duke" controllers. Do I have to do something more than solder to the points you show?

 

Thanks for the additional info. I'm starting to believe that no one in the world has ever successfully soldered under the black plastic crap. I don't believe there is a tutorial that says more than "scrape it off" then shows a completed solder joint with hot glue on it.

 

As far as the points you are hitting, are they the same as the alternative points shown here:

http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagr...ox_diagram2.jpg ?

 

[Garcimak]

you can avoid some burned controller due to previous test without those resistor (or messy ground feedback in a cab)

I'm not sure what this means. I also have the old fat "Duke" controllers. Do I have to do something more than solder to the points you show?

just advise to put those 4.7k and 33 Ohm Resistors in serie between your button mechanism and the ground feedback, this way you will keep

the voltage correct, the way it was on the 'duke' when button pushed.

As far as the points you are hitting, are they the same as the alternative points shown here:

http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagr...ox_diagram2.jpg ?

seems to be the same, i did not use TP20 (left analog stick click)

Edited September 27, 2011 by Garcimak

[PhilExile]

Hello,

 

I modded a lot of controllers using this method - NES, SNES, Genesis, 2600, 5200*, etc. Instead of VGA cable, I used a DB-15 or DB-25 cable. Modern VGA cables no longer have the necessary number of wires. I'm confused why you had to use a resistor. Is this something specific to using it witha jamma board? I never had any problems and I never included a resistor in my setup.

 

* I actually took pictures and wrote up a 'how-I-did-it' for the 5200 controller which I'll be posting over at Atari Age. I promised a member there that I would post it at that forum.

 

The 5200 controller was more of a hack than the others. I'll be sure to post a link to the post here for those that are interested.

[Garcimak]

I modded a lot of controllers using this method - NES, SNES, Genesis, 2600, 5200*, etc. Instead of VGA cable, I used a DB-15 or DB-25 cable. Modern VGA cables no longer have the necessary number of wires. I'm confused why you had to use a resistor. Is this something specific to using it witha jamma board? I never had any problems and I never included a resistor in my setup.

Hi Phil, eager to see your mod, for the resistor, even if it works without it, since i've had severa MIA hacked controller i prefer to keep them safe, it 's cheap enough and not restrictive to add, now i was'nt that clear.

 

You can verify this measure with a ohmeter between the ground and the point, the exact resistance is no more when your circuit make contact (button pressed) you will have full tension value that's why i put a resistor to compensate

Edited March 5, 2012 by Garcimak

[PhilExile]

Hi, so what is the value of the resistor to use and where does it go? I read over the posts, but its not 100% clear. (Or I'm not noticing at least)

 

Thanks!